San Juan Del Sur, Nicaragua…the second poorest country in Central America, next to Haiti

So the title says it all. A beautiful little country with a long way to go….and a big fear of the Ebola virus. Yes, we had to fill out health questionnaires for the Nicaraguan authorities and have our temperatures taken as we headed ashore. We were tendered into the port and sure enough there was a doctor and nurse, compete with white coats and gloves on, waiting on the dock as we stepped off the tender boats. A little over the top if you ask me.

The view from our tender boats showed a beautiful protected port with some expensive homes up in the mountains. The homes on the ground proved to be otherwise.

So we all passed our “physical” and boarded buses for our chosen excursion. Modern buses with guides who spoke English well. Our hour and a half drive took us through the countryside and eventually on the Pan American Highway as we headed to the town of Granada, located on the shore of Lake Nicaragua, which is the biggest freshwater lake in South American next to Lake Titicaca. Lake Nicaragua can be compared in size to the Island of Puerto Rico.

Interesting Fact: A tributary of this lake flows into the Caribbean Sea and it was interesting to hear that during the California Gold Rush, Cornelius Vanderbilt (yes the billionaire) established what was considered a quicker way to get to the west coast – transportation (for a price) from New Orleans, down the Caribbean Sea, onto the river that led in to Lake Nicaragua. Once they reached the Granada area, it was only seven miles or so to cross the land to get to the Pacific, where they would then pick up a boat that would take them up the west coast.  Also, in later years, this route was discussed as a possible place to put in a Canal (like the Panama Canal) but was skipped over due to the volcanic activity of many of the volcanoes located in Nicaragua. We were also told that China is looking to build a canal through this passage and it’s unknown whether the Nicaraguan government and people will allow that to happen, especially because they would pretty much lose control of Lake Nicaragua and I think that would not be a good thing. I guess it could be a little competition for the Panama Canal?

The countryside was lush and green; however, the homes were pretty much corrugated metal roofs and walls that looked very ‘thrown together’. Cows, pigs, horses, and cattle could be seen tied to trees alongside the road, just hanging out and eating the grass. Some areas showed cattle roaming larger areas behind fences.  Lots of barbed wire on fences around properties and bars on windows of buildings and some houses.  The Sandinista government (extreme left wing) is in control and the people are trying to overcome all the years of war they endured – most of us will remember some of what went on back in the 1980’s. The children have been required to go to school since the early 1990’s; however, because there are not enough buildings to house them, primary students go in the morning and middle school students attend in the afternoon. We saw lots of children hanging around and when we had free time in Granada, the adults and children alike were all over the tourists trying to sell us their wares. The children, using palm branches, make flowers or hearts and hand them to you, then expecting money in return (usually $1). Needless to say this got old very quickly and (after contributing $1 here and there to several children) most of us spent our free time saying “no, gracias” over and over again.

We enjoyed a short cruise on Lake Nicaragua where we saw, once again, some very poor housing (family bathing in the lake) and also some fancy homes – the divide between “rich” is “poor” is huge. We also glimpsed some of the wildlife, mainly birds, along this cruise through the mangroves. We were shown a museum in Granada housing pre-Columbian art and pottery and to me, the most impressive, were the display of basalt statues. When the Spanish arrived in Nicaragua, the people there were pretty much considered Pagan and still living in the Stone Age.

And we were enjoyed a performance of by some local dancers. Another interesting fact:  Baseball is their number one sport! Football (soccer) is played, however, their national team “sucks” according to our guide. And they also have a team that plays American football and they are very good although don’t get much funding.

After being treated to a traditional Nicaraguan lunch at a local hotel in Granada (rice, beans, shredded chicken and beef, squash, fried plantains, and rice pudding for dessert), we were back on the bus for our trip back to the ship. It was a full 8 hour day and we waited in line for our tenders to take us back to the ship, which was waiting patiently for all of us to return so we could pull anchor and set sail for Cabo San Lucas. We are not sure how much of our money that’s paid to the tour company is making it to the local residents.  This country may have a long way to go, but they are trying.